The first thing that comes to mind when discussing Languedoc is likely value-oriented, bulk wine. It wouldn’t be a surprise because the Pays d’Oc IGP is by far the largest producer in France, accounting for about 20% of the country’s total wine volume. To give more context, its area under vine is about as much as the whole of South Africa.
But the region is much more than its bulk wine production. Exceptional wines have been produced in the area for a long time; for example Mas de Daumas Gassac, a cult producer near Aniane bottles their wines as Pays d’Oc IGP. But the focus on terroir is a relatively recent development (starting in the 1980s), especially since the recognition of the individual appellations that were formerly part of Côteaux du Languedoc AOC.
Two Fitou
The first dry red appellation in the area is much older, as it was granted in 1948 to Fitou AOC. Fitou vineyards are located near the namesake village, which lays not far from the Mediterranean coast right where Languedoc meets Roussillon. They form an enclave of the Corbières AOC (which was established much later in 1985).
The Fitou appellation is split into two distinct growing areas: Fitou Maritime near the coast, and Haut Fitou, sometimes called Fitou Montagneux about 30km inland amongst the mountains.
The same vineyard area also produces Rivesaltes AOC and Muscat de Rivesaltes AOC, both vin doux naturels (fortified wines), and producers commonly make both. The former is made in all colours with many possible grapes, the latter is white made exclusively with Muscat. Notably though, Muscat Blanc à Petit Grains is the main variety in use, but uniquely to French fortified wines, Muscat de Rivesaltes AOC also allows the use of Muscat d’Alexandrie (same as the Portuguese Moscatel de Setúbal).
This split was driven by the politics of the time rather than terroir, as both areas are quite different (more on this later). But what makes Fitou distinctive is its blend formula.
Carignan
Fitou is the only appellation in the area that mandates using a minimum amount of Carignan (20%). Grenache has also a minimum of 20% by itself, and the combination of Carignan and Grenache must compose at least 60% of the final blend.
On top of the 2 primary grapes, Syrah and/or Mourvèdre must make up at least 10% of the final blend. So while it bears some similarities to a Rhône or Languedoc-Roussillon blend made with GSM (Grenache, Syrah, Mouvèdre), Carignan is a much more dominant player in Fitou, rather than Syrah.
Carignan (known as Mazuelo in Spain) has been much maligned because it can be a very productive grape that has been used extensively to fill up bulk blends. It provides a high level of acidity, colour and tannins, and can be bitter. But when it is raised with low yields on bush-trained old vines and softened using carbonic maceration, its intensity is tamed and it provides an excellent balance to the soft, highly alcoholic Grenache. As we previously discussed with Fleurie, carbonic maceration excels at bringing out fresh red fruit flavours that complement the often very ripe fruit aromas of Languedoc wines.
Terroir
Fitou’s soils are not very fertile and that contributes to the lower yield of its Carignan plantings. Both areas are rich in limestone, but Fitou Maritime has more clay and is better suited to planting Mourvèdre. Haut Fitou has a higher sandstone and schist content and is ideal for Syrah.
This is why wines produced in the coastal part will likely feature Mourvèdre as the blending partner, whereas the wines produced in the mountains will feature Syrah. Arguably, the best vineyard sites are located in Haut Fitou where the slightly cooler climate expresses a truly fine Carignan.
Producers
The co-operative du Mont Tauch, the oldest in Languedoc, was responsible for more than half of the production, although since its near bankruptcy in 2014 has focused on value, bulk produced wines. Co-operatives have deep historical roots in the region, and several still produce high-quality Fitou.
As for independent winemakers, Bertrand-Bergé has long set the benchmark for high quality. A champion of the renaissance of Languedoc-Roussillon’s wine, Gérard Bertrand has become its best ambassador on the international scene and produces a lovely Fitou as well.
Like many of its Languedoc neighbours, Fitou are ripe, rustic, medium to full bodied. But Fitou’s larger share of Carignan bring a higher intensity of colour, as well as red and dark fruit flavours that go as well with a barbecue as they do with a hearty stew.
As usual, you can find wines available near you if you live in Canada at Winereco:
Until next week, happy drinking !