When I think Northern Rhône, the first thing that comes to mind is a bold red from Côte-Rôtie, Crozes-Hermitages or Saint-Joseph that gives Syrah its worldwide recognition. But it is also the home of Condrieu, a white wine-only appellation where Viognier is the only variety allowed. But something lurks in Condrieu. They say it exists, but I’ve never seen it.
Viognier
Viognier is a bit of an oddball. First, it’s an aromatic white grape. More like Muscat or Gewurztraminer than Sauvignon Blanc - think apricot, peach and honeysuckle, not green pepper and gooseberry. Second, it makes wines that are usually high in alcohol, although that can lack acidity. And last, it loves rocks: vine usually does well in poor soils, but Viognier thrives on nothing. And by thrive, I mean as much as it can, because it is prone to quite a few diseases.
So what’s the perfect place to grow Viognier? Northern Rhône of course.
Rocky soils? Check. They have so much rock that they have been making terraces since Roman times to grow wine there.
Not a lot of acidity? No problem, the Northern Rhône valley is fairly cool, especially at night, so that preserves the little acidity there is.
High alcohol? Move over, oaky Chardonnay, give some room for something that doesn’t taste like lumber.
Condrieu
The appellation of Condrieu is named after the village at its center. Slightly larger than its neighbours but still tiny overall (around 200 hectares), it overlaps Côte-Rôtie to the north and Saint-Joseph to the south. The aforementioned Côte-Rôtie AOC wine is red and based on Syrah, but Viognier is often planted in the same vineyards and is allowed in the blend (up to 20%). South of the village of Chavanay, vineyards planted with Viognier make Condrieu AOC whereas the ones planted with Syrah, Marsanne and Roussanne are reserved for St-Joseph AOC.
Condrieu has to be made with 100% Viognier, and even though the appellation rules allow for sweet versions (often labelled Sélections de Grains Nobles), these days you will find almost exclusively dry versions. Despite its alcohol levels, it is meant to be drunk fairly young to enjoy the freshness of its fruity and floral aromas. It’s one of the rare luxury wine appellations not meant for long term cellaring.
There are other Viognier-based wines on the market. France leads the pack with Vin de Pays d’Oc or even IGP Côtes Rhodaniennes. California and Australia also grow it successfully. But nothing quite measures up to Condrieu’s version.
Château-Grillet
In the village of Vérin, steps away from the village of Condrieu stands Château-Grillet AOC. It is one of the handfuls of French monopoles outside of Bourgogne (a monopole is an appellation made by a single producer). Condrieu is not big with its 200 hectares, but Château-Grillet is just under 4 hectares of rocky terraces!
Château-Grillet got its AOC status right when the appellation system was created in 1936, a full 4 years before Condrieu. It is fully enclosed within Condrieu AOC, and also produces some wine under the Condrieu appellation. It has been owned by the same family from the mid 19th century until the owner of Château Latour acquired it in 2011. And unlike Condrieu, Château-Grillet AOC is meant to be aged often a decade and decanted before drinking.
Let’s face it, Condrieu is not easy to find. The total production hovers around 7 thousand hectolitres per vintage these days -compare this to the 1.3 million hectolitres of Côtes du Rhône-. That said, every good wine shop will have some stock at least from time to time.
But Château-Grillet?
There are stories of people who have tasted it. There are pictures of bottles. Tasting notes have been written. Personally, I’ve never seen a bottle of it. I don’t think I have met in person someone who had tasted it even once. I’m starting to think that it’s like Bigfoot or a legend that gets passed from one generation to the next about this wine made with Viognier that is better after a few years in a cellar.
Of course, I would be happy to be proven wrong. The ultimate proof of existence would come in the form of a bottle that I can taste, you know… just to be sure it exists.
But until then, I will keep drinking younger Condrieu instead, and leave Château-Grillet to my dreams.
To check out the bottles available near you (if you live in Canada), use Winereco
Have you found a bottle of Viognier that can stand up to a good Condrieu? Know where I can get some Château-Grillet in Canada?
Let everyone know in the comments: