Quintessential grape of the western Iberian peninsula, Albariño is mostly grown in the cooler Galicia, in the northwestern part of Spain as well as in Vinho Verde in the North of Portugal where it is called Alvarinho.
Its increasing popularity has led to increased plantings on the West Coast of the US, especially in California and Oregon, but also elsewhere. Funny story, the Albariño that was thought to be planted in Australia turned out to not be Albariño at all, but instead the ancient French variety called Savagnin Blanc which is the base of Vin Jaune in Jura. But that is a story for another week!
Albariño
While its origins are unclear, the presence of 200-300-year-old vine as well as old wild grapevines in Galicia points to the grape being native from the area. It is a white grape variety whose thick skin makes the grape resilient to very wet growing conditions.
It produces wines that are high in acidity, medium to high in alcohol and high in aromatics. The best examples will display a whole range of aromas and flavours: citrus (orange, grapefruit), orchard fruits (peach, green apple) as well as flowers (linden, honeysuckle, orange blossom) and hints of marine/salinity. When grown at higher yields, grassy aromas can start to overpower the others, so look for lower-yield vineyards.
Since the high acidity can be a bit tart, some producers make use of malolactic fermentation. I have discussed this better in my book, but “malo” is the process of converting malic acid (which tastes tart like a green apple) into lactic acid (which tastes sweeter like yogurt) and can help round up the mouthfeel of an otherwise acidic wine. This is up to the winemaker and can be done not at all, partially or completely.
Rías Baixas
Galicia is right by the Atlantic ocean, and the westerly winds cool the region of Rías Baixas, especially for vineyards closer to the coast. Those vineyards tend to have more sandy soils and give distinctive marine flavours to the wine. Further inland, the richer clay soils combined with better weather make for riper, fruitier wines.
The traditional training for vines is a stone pergola, which can lead to very high yields and need to be well controlled, although the extra air circulation helps avoid mildew and other diseases caused by the very damp climate.
Rías Baixas DO got its Denominación de Origen in 1988 but had long been recognized for its typicity. Nowadays, the DO is further split into 5 sub-zones. The largest which accounts for almost 60% of the acreage is Salnés (Val do Salnés); the second largest, Condado do Tea, accounts for about 25%. By comparison, the smallest sub-zone of Soutomaior is tiny (not even registering than 1% of acreage), accounting for barely over a dozen hectares. The newest sub-zone, Ribeira do Ulla was added in 2000. Last but not least, the sub-zone of O Rosal is along the Minho River and the Portuguese border.
The wines
Wines labelled Rías Baixas Albariño must contain 100% Albariño that can come from any of the sub-zones.
If a sub-zone is mentioned on the label, the vine must contain at least 70% Albariño, with the balance of local grapes (Loureira, Treixadura, Caiño, and others). That said, producers will make 100% Albariño vines labelled from the sub-zone.
We already discussed MLF (malolactic fermentation) above to round up the acidity. Another technique that is widely used is lees stirring (bâtonnage), which like in Muscadet helps give a rounder mouthfeel to Albariño which could feel a bit light-bodied otherwise. More and more producers are experimenting with barrel fermentation and sometimes even barrel ageing (in very ripe years).
Speaking of Muscadet, Albariño offers similar food pairings possibilities, with seafood and fish topping the list. But it’s more aromatic and can accompany stronger flavours, such as crab, lobster, or scallop coral (if you are lucky enough to live in a place where you can find it). Love tapas ? Pair them with a bottle of Albariño as it’s very versatile and food-friendly.
And on the plus side, they remain fairly inexpensive, especially given the quality of the wines. They can frequently be found in wine stores and enjoy a wide distribution.
Spring is coming fast, and these wines are very enjoyable during the summer as they are both refreshing and aromatic. If you haven’t tried Albariño before, give it a try; and if you already love it, share your favourite producer in the comments.
Until next week, happy drinking!